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The Wagyu Breed -- From Warfare to Plowshares

Cattle were first introduced into Japan around the 2nd century, brought in from the Asian mainland, via the Korean Peninsula. The cattle provided a much-needed source of agricultural power, power to pull the plows for the cultivation of rice, power for the growth of a nation.
The Shikoku region received the first imports, but because of rugged terrain and difficult traveling in the region, further migration of the cattle was slow. The cattle were in isolated areas, each essentially a closed population. Genetically segregated by topography, those animals were the ancestors of today’s Japanese Wagyu breed of cattle.

The word Wagyu (pronounced wa-gyou) translated literally means Japanese, or Japanese-style cattle.

Interestingly, there was a sound reason for breeding the Wagyu cattle for use only as draft animals, or beasts of burden – at that time Japanese religion prohibited the consumption of beef. But all that changed when an innovative Japanese military leader predicted diets rich in beef would make for significantly stronger soldiers, and a successful campaign waged by the general’s beef-strengthened troops served to validate his point. From that time forward, beef was a mandated part of the Japanese military diet in times of war -- it gave them strength.

Not surprisingly, when the triumphant, beef-fed soldiers returned to their homes and to their farms, they brought with them an appetite for beef. That appetite was a problem - Japanese elders still embraced their traditional beliefs. Cooking and consuming beef inside the home was considered a sacrilege, a desecration of the house, and was therefore forbidden.

With no alternatives and not wishing to sacrifice the beef they craved, when the young farmers broke for their midday meal they heated their plowshares over hot coals; they cooked their beef outside, in the rice fields Thus was born the tradition of Japanese “Plow Cooking”.

Recognizing their opportunity, pioneering breeders began selectively breeding their herds for human consumption. Some of those early genetic records survive till today, in the Wagyu herd book dating back to 1830. The Japanese herds were opened for limited crossbreeding from 1868 to1910. Breeding stock of Brown Swiss, Shorthorn, Devon, Simmental, Aryshire, Korean, Holstein, and Angus, each made their genetic contribution to the Wagyu strain.

When regional variations in the cattle became greater than desired, it was decided that crossbreeding had not been beneficial, so in early 1900 the herds were closed once again to outside bloodlines. Since that time, the breed has been monitored closely by the Japanese Wagyu Registry, who meticulously maintain genetic and growth data on all cattle.

The herds were developed with the emphasis on quality – Wagyu produce consistently marbled, low-cholesterol carcasses, recognized as the world’s finest, unmatched for flavor, tenderness and overall eating quality. Very protective of the breed, Japan went so far as to have the Wagyu classified as a national treasure.

Mr. Shogo Takeda was the first Wagyu breeder on Hokkaido Island and for 45 years dedicated his life to improving the bloodline. In 1976 four full-blooded Wagyu bulls were shipped to North America. These bulls formed the genetic foundation for today’s North American herds.

The Takeda American herd grew to 1700 animals, including 200 Takeda-bred, full blood Wagyu bulls. That herd, along with a network of Angus contract herds in four states, represented Takeda’s passion, and much of his life's work.

In 1999, he sold the entirety of his Takeda American operations to Gary Yamamoto, an American businessman with interests in Arizona and Texas. Today, thanks to Yamamoto, Takeda’s dream is a reality.

Wagyu cattle with bloodlines dating back to the second century, and from half a world away are being born in Texas, fed in custom Iowa feedlots, custom packed in Nebraska and Texas, and shipped to restaurants and customers, worldwide.

The path of the Wagyu breed has been a long one;
Dietary supplements for ancient warriors
To plow cooking entrée alongside rice fields
To verdant Texas pastures and commercialized production
Full circle the Wagyu came
To appear on specialty menus in Japan.
And the Japanese word for its humblest of origins on a heated plow?
It’s Sukiyaki...Plow Cooking.


SOURCES
Washington State University
American Wagyu Association